History, culture, varied architecture, incredible vistas and wholesome food. These are just a few things that awaits you in Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia. On the cusp of Europe and Asia it is one of the oldest cities in the world.

Tbilisi is still an under the radar destination however tourism in Georgia is growing. For most travelers Tbilisi is an unknown and that’s what first appealed to us when we booked our flights to Georgia. If you are planning to visit Georgia we put together this small Tbilisi guide. Also if you are planning to venture further than the capital check out our Georgian Road Trip Blog and YouTube! 

Tbilisi Essentials 

Everything you need to know before you go.

The local currency in Georgia is lari (GEL).

The local time is GMT +4 in the summer and GMT +3 in winter.

We recommend downloading the App Bolt to use to get around the city. It’s the Georgian equivalent of Uber. It takes all the stress out of haggling over the price of the fare and insures you arrive at the right location without having to explain to the driver. It also has a great feature of being able to send your location to a friend, perfect for solo travelers.

If your normal mobile phone plan doesn’t cover Georgia you can buy a SIM card with just data at kiosks at the airport. These are really convenient and a great price -expect to pay about 20 euro for 30 days unlimited data. We went with GEOCELL and always had signal.

Tbilisi Highlights 

Abanotubani District

Located at the east bank of the Mtkvari river just at the foot of the Narikala fort this district of Tbilisi is best know for its Sulfuric baths which your nose might detect before your eyes! As with all of Tbilisi there is a distinct mix of cultures, apart from the famous Turkish bathes there are several interesting landmarks here including a Muslim mosque, old houses and if you continue down the path a beautiful waterfall in a small shaded canyon -Leghvtakhevi as it’s called is the perfect place to escape the heat of the day. Be sure to visit just as the sun sets to really see the warmth of the brickwork and rich colors of the mosaics.

Old Tbilisi

Dzveli Tbilisi, or Old Tbilisi is a special part of the city, it’s full of architectural gems, Instagram hotspots and a few surprises.

Seldom on our travels do we find a place as genuine and unchanged as Old Tbilisi, it’s truly is like stepping back in time to an era without concrete, apartment blocks or any modern building techniques just as you would expect in one of the oldest cities in the world. What you will see is brickwork of all ages, wooden balconies clinging on and crumbling facades all nestled in small winding streets. Be sure to spend time just wondering around and taking in this very special place looking out for how the changing cultures of the past have shaped this area. Don’t forget that these are peoples homes so be respectful of people’s privacy.

Fabrika

Where once lied an abandoned sewing factory from the soviet union era is now a new artistic and hipster hostel with many restaurants, bars and co working spaces. The courtyard behind the old factory is the hub of this newly renovated area, here you will find people from all walks of life enjoying the hotspot. The whole area has a old-meets-new aesthetic with soviet architecture and modern art works painted on the walls. The area is always a buzz with energy and is a great place to meet fellow travelers and locals.

We grabbed a taxi to this creative center of Tbilisi and enjoyed the atmosphere late into the evening. We recommend you do the same!

Leaning Clock Tower

This Tbilisi landmark is easily missed if you don’t know what you are looking for or where to look! It’s no Big Ben or Astrological clock of Prague, but it has its own unique charm. The clock tower is not the oldest, in fact it’s actually a new addition built by the puppeteer Rezo Gabriadze completed in 2011. You would be forgiven in thinking it dated back centuries but that’s down to the motivation behind the playful design, it’s a statement against the soulless urban modernization and a reminder of the shocking state of disrepair of other parts of the city that the government is neglecting whilst building countless modern structures.

Peace Bridge and Rike Park

As we walked down the left bank of the Mtkvari River we entered the Rike Park. The park is full of activities for all the family. From Modern art sculptures to dancing waterfalls, landscaped gardens and it’s also where you will take the gondola to Narikala Fortress. The park is a welcome oasis of nature from the busy streets of Tbilisi.

The Peace Bridge connects Rike Park to old Tbilisi and has become a symbol for renewed Tbilisi. When you walk across you will have a great view from both directions. The bridge is especially beautiful at night when countless of LEDs light up the bridge in a multitude of colors.

A word of warning – When entering Rike Park you will be met by lots of Peddlers selling everything from boat tours to photos with parrots. Most of them are harmless and just trying to make a living nevertheless keeps your belongings close and walk fast into the park if you don’t want to be bothered by them.

Narikala Fortress

From Rike Park we entered the gondola terminal shrugging off the peddlers outside and approaching  a ticket desk. “two return adult tickets” I said making a hand gesture and giving my best smile. “10!” the ticket lady said. My mind started doing a quick conversion from Gel to CHF as I handed over 10 Gel or 3 Euro, I could hardly believe how inexpensive the gondola was. We jumped on the ropeway and enjoy the panoramic views of the city all the while admiring Narikala Fortress and Mother Georgia in all her glory. When you reach the top you can turn left or right. Left will take you to the fortress and right to Mother Georgia, we opted to see Mother Georgia first. The 20M high aluminum woman holds a glass of wine in one hand and a sword in the other signifying warmly welcoming guests and passionately fighting off enemies. Make sure you scan the QR code located on the side of the monument to hear the statue speak!

Next, we walked towards the fortress, and you will see the botanical garden at over 161 hectares, it is a spectacular sight.

The fortress has gone by many names over the centuries, as it once was a Persian citadel, a palace and a fortress. Many refer to it as Mother fortress as it stands as symbol for ancient Tbilisi’s defensive brilliance.

Where to Stay, Eat and Drink

Initially we thought finding plant based vegan food in Tbilisi would be very difficult! But when we arrived we were pleasantly surprised not only to find multiple dedicated restaurants but lots of options when wandering the streets too.

When you are travelling sometimes nutrition goes out the window so one of the things we love doing is grabbing a juice in the morning to sip on while sightseeing in the city. There are so many options for fresh juice in Tbilisi, enjoy stumbling across them!

Muhudo Falafel Shop - This place has become almost an institution in Tbilisi. They only sell falafel wraps in three different sizes and your only option is whether you want it spicy or not! This place is loved by locals so expect to wait a while for your falafel wrap! It was so good we went twice! A word of warning though the area that the falafel shop is located in isn’t the best so keep your wits about you whilst waiting and be prepared for aggressive beggars of all ages.

Living Vino - This dedicated vegan restaurant/wine bar prides itself on fresh ingredients with wine pairings to match. Living Vino is the perfect place for a date location as the vibe is romantic and slow. Note it’s not the cheapest place for dinner in Tbilisi but the the quality does reflect the price.

We started and ended our tour in Tbilisi meaning we needed two hotels! However upon arriving at the KMM hotel at 3am and the staff, room and breakfast being so great, we decided to return two weeks later. The two best things about the KMM hotel are the prices and the breakfast room. Your standard room can cost as little as €20 and the breakfast room has a 180 degree views of Tbilisi! We stayed in their budget double room and their Panorama King Room and both were clean, bright and worth the money. The Panorama King Room had one of the best hotel room views we have experienced with a large terrace for you to enjoy your morning coffee.

Hidden Tbilisi Gems 

Gallery 27

When researching our trip to Tbilisi I stumbled across Gallery 27 on Instagram. Set in the heart of the city’s historical old town, Gallery 27 is a small shop selling Georgian Arts and crafts. The staircase leading up to the store is incredible. Hundreds of intricately cut pieces of stained glass project a mosaic of light onto the stairwell making for some beautiful and unique photo opportunities. If you visit this magical staircase be sure to visit the store and help support the upkeep of this hidden gem.

Tbilisi Travel Tips  

Remember to be respectful when exploring Old Tbilisi. What is a novelty or attraction to you is the everyday reality and home for the locals living in the area.

Learn a little Georgian. We learnt how to say the basic hello and thank you and you could really tell the locals appreciated the gesture. 

• gamarjoba – hello

• didi madloba – thank you very much

• ara – no

Photo Diary

One of the most beautiful things about Tbilisi is its details so take your time and enjoy this ever-changing city. Crumbling streets to modern day structures, the city will leave you craving to return. Its charm, people and culture make daily activities a unique experience. We loved our time in Tbilisi and look forward to the next time we get to explore her streets.

If you have additional suggestions for travelers to Tbilisi, please drop them in the comments section!

Love 

Emily